Take a walk by the side by lanes without remembering why you have to remain outdoors for some time. And it will not disappoint you. The first thing that anyone visiting Pondicherry should do is to walk down to the beach. If you are coming from the bus stand, head absolutely straight down to the beach road that ends in clear blue skies flanked by clear blue water. There are a few reasons for it. Firstly, the tourism office is housed in a small building there and they provide you not just with cold water and fan, a much needed updated map of the city and the best free guidance regarding anything you might need for your stay. Second, when one takes that walk, from say the State bus stand towards the beach, the architecture and roads change swiftly and make you feel like you have left behind a typical Indian small town and entered a villa in South France. On the by lanes you can catch people lazily sitting around or playing a game of marbles or a traditional game, that gives you a feel of a undisturbed and tranquil place. Thirdly, the beach is simply the best place to hang out in the small city. It has rocks lined up right next to the sea and they provide a calm site as the wave’s crash on the rocks.

The sea, the sand, the shore and of course the crashing waves. Welcome to Pondicherry. There is nothing much to do here except wander on the streets and admire the architecture. The place has its own identity, carefully protected by its past. It is possibly the only place in India where you will find a political or spiritual message written in Tamil, Telagu and French right next to each other. If you are the adventurous type then just walk into a guesthouse to take a peek and its guaranteed that you will stumble on some very beautiful colonial set ups and artifacts. There isn’t much to see in the city, but much to absorb and take in, and sense and feel.

The best way to get around the city is by foot, but it is advisable only if you can as it can get demanding. Otherwise the best way is to hire a bike/scooty as they are priced suitably on a daily basis. Be sure to check the condition of it before you take it though. Most of them ask for an identity proof to keep with them in place of a deposit. These are generally easily available if you ask and look around. Fill it up with enough gas/petrol from the city cause once you are on the road you might just forget about it as you get busy in sosking up the place. There are shops in Auroville who sell petrol in bottles, for a higher rate of course, however they are very helpful. Mechanics and gas sellers are easy to locate on road sides else one can ask the ever friendly natives of the place. And then its time to go vrrrrrooommmm…..

Drive down the East Coast Road that connects the Eastern Ghats from West Bengal to the tip of Kanyakumari across four states. It has one of India’s finest virgin beaches with clear blue waters. Just turn your bike to the right side of the road and cross any small fishing hamlet to get to the sand. Park your vehicle and walk down the beach. Chances are that you will encounter a beautiful small fishing settlement where a few men and women would be taking out the fish from their nets and small fishes would be kept to out to dry everywhere you walk. This is truly one of the best experiences the place can offer. Truly rustic and gorgeous to the core.When in Pondicherry make sure to buy some absolutely chilled beer or soft drinks which are much cheaper (the taxes are levied off as it is a Union Territory!!) and find a small shade of an abandoned boat on the shore. Enjoy the cool shade and the cool drink.

Anyone will easily point out the cut on the left side of the road that leads to Auroville. It is a small place that offers surprises and co existence of people and elements at every go. The drive down the small roads that curves beautifully is actually awesome. Just follow the built road that goes to the auditorium where the ‘tourists’ come for a scrutiny. Then follow the red earth roads that for a moment will make you feel do not lead anywhere. Trust your instincts, if you want to, then go ahead and explore the jungle. It would be immensely helpful if you know anyone who is there for a longer stay to guide you through the huge beautiful jungle. Else, read on. There are small places where you can stop and look at the playground or the School, auditoriums or even the huge ball at the Matri Mandir. They suddenly spring up from nowhere. And of course you will come across a number of firangs on their bikes with an OM t shirt or Bob Marley style long tresses.

If you keep your eyes open for accommodation, you will find a number of guest houses suit your pocket. If you want a true experience of living next to Mother Nature, then find a board on the roadside and follow the smaller road trail and end up to guest houses that are off from the main road. They are priced according to the season, winters bring in the rush and monsoons being the relaxed time. Monsoons, I would say is the best time to get that green and chilly experience of a sea-side. The guest houses are generally very modestly done in a post modern rural structure that provides everything modern. Some have bathrooms with open roofs and showers. Huge jack fruits, from the trees, also known as kathal, peep in when you start scrubbing yourself. The unmatched part about the food is that it is fresh and warm; it is cooked right after you place your order. That brings us to the most awful part also, if you are really hungry, it-takes-time.

Chill out in Auroville as you bike around. Enjoy the cool wind, the smiling locals, the warm food, the revelation at every turn and the dirt-bike type racing/driving around in the jungle. It is a calm place, be careful to not disturb that truth. Have lunch in the small shack restaurant that unexpectedly appears from nowhere. And then, hit the beach. Right out side the turn to Auroville, on ECR there is the hidden-but famous Cubbon beach, the road to it is veiled by the presence of small houses that make you feel you have entered a housing area. Ask and you shall be provided with directions. It ends at a guest-house and then a beach. The guest house has a nice welcoming restaurant that offers one of the better breakfasts around. You will be spoilt for choice as you find Indian and French food at your service. On Sundays, the place even has a self service style. Enjoy the meal and hit the beach. Take a swim or just lie down for sunbath. If you are in the mood for some adventure again, then just walk down to the fishing village and if you are lucky you will find a fresh catch back from the sea. You can request the fishermen to take you to the sea, to catch the nuances of fishing or to just explore the sea. The space and time here spread themselves enchantingly and generously without measure.



The quality of moments is not to be measured by pages written or by the incandescent journey but by the ‘sighs’ and vendettas of memory.

Comments

sam said…
To me, this is the best you've written yet!! Puducheri! here I come!!! (which brings up the question... What on earth are you doing down south?!!)
Parul said…
haha...travel travel..south india! am imbased in bangalore i thot it wud be great to visit places down south on weekends! its good fun...!
Anonymous said…
Thanks for this useful article.

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